Located amidst the serene landscape of Tulmul Village, and along the Devika River (commonly locally referred to as the Jhelum), is the Kheer Bhawani Temple, a beaming icon of devotion, tradition, and architectural simplicity. Praised by devout folks from near and far, this temple of Kashmiri Hindus is not only an icon of religious concord but also a mirror of Jammu and Kashmir’s rich cultural tapestry. The peaceful environment, where the gurgling spring mixes with dense forests, lends enchantment to the journey to the Kheer Bhawani Mandir.
Historical Importance of Kheer Bhawani Temple
The history of the Kheer Bhawani Temple dates back to a period before even some of the great temples that cover the Indian subcontinent. Dedicated to the patronage of King Jalauka, a Scythian monarch who is responsible for the early spread of Buddhism in Kashmir, the temple has experienced centuries of transformation created by dynastic turmoil, invasions, and sociocultural processes. With all the fortunes and misfortunes of history—ranging from the advent of Islam into the region to the tumultuous history of the 20th century—the shrine has endured as a symbol of resilience for the Kashmiri Hindu nation.
During Dogra regime in Jammu and Kashmir, the temple sanctity received royal patronage. Maharaja Ranbir Singh and subsequently Maharaja Pratap Singh are attributed with restoring the sanctum sanctorum and maintaining the gardens undisturbed around it. Even after the earthquake of 1947 and the subsequent departure of Kashmiri Pandits, the Kheer Bhawani Mandir was open to worship, giving relief to migrated families who still make pilgrimages every year during the auspicious Jyeshtha Ashtami festival.
The Legend of Mata Ragnya Devi
At the heart of the mythology of the temple lies the divine vision of Mata Ragnya Devi, the embodiment of the Mother Goddess revered across the Indian subcontinent. The legend goes that in the old days, a devout Brahmin by the name of Shivanand Swami had a daily practice of making an offering of kheer (sweet rice pudding) to a sacred spring as part of his daily worship. The goddess also revealed herself to him in vision one day, pleased by his worship and requiring his unflinching faith. Shivanand Swami, while breaking into trance, found the kheer gone and the spring water charged with rare colors. This visitation by god marked the advent of the Kheer Bhawani Temple, where kheer formed the primary offering, symbolizing sustenance, purity, and surrender to divine will.
The name “Kheer Bhawani” marries kheer, the ritual sweet foodstuff, to Bhawani, the Mother Goddess by another designation, calling special attention to the temple’s peculiar devotional rite. Century-old pilgrims have borne testimony to the sudden color changes of the spring ranging from red-blue to green and black taken to be the reaction of the goddess to peace in the community or discord.
Architecture and Surroundings
As compared to the South Indian temple spires or Banaresian shrines of exquisite carvings, the Kheer Bhawani Mandir is a masterpiece of restraint. The sanctum sanctorum is a little square chamber upheld by a modest dome, painted snowy white. The temple entrance is full of carved doorways of wood with lotus petal and mythological symbol motifs. The courtyard, covered with flat stone slabs, invites pilgrims to go around the sanctum in devoutness.
Along with the temple surrounds a garden dense and well attended to by locals. Maple, chinar, and willow provide a cover of leaves, while rosemary and lavender plots provide an air scented by perfume. Walking pathways lead upwards towards the holy spring—behind a parapet no taller than any standing man, its stone stairs hidden from prying eyes—which stands as a source of pilgrimage devotions. Such architectural conjunctions of God-created and human abilities serve only to heighten religious ambiance found on the site in Kashmir.
The Spring and Its Wonderful Colors
Central to the mystery of Kheer Bhawani Temple is the holy spring, which is reputed to be a living embodiment of Mata Ragnya Devi. Pilgrims gather at the water’s edge, scooping ladles of kheer with a hopeful glance towards the colorful display that ensues. Temple lore has it that the color of the spring water reacts to the shared psyche of the people—lively hues signify communal harmony, whereas deeper hues hint at conflict beneath the surface.
Over the centuries, travelers and pilgrims have noted such transformations:
- Red: A sign of God’s blessing, commonly observed on celebratory Jyeshtha Ashtami days.
- Blue: Indicating cosmic depth and unbreakable loyalty.
- Green: Symbolizing renewal, abundance, and intimate connection with nature.
- Black or Dark Brown: Considered a warning, it evokes introspection and propitiations.
While skeptics offer algael or mineral deposits as the cause, believers account for the phenomenon as resulting from supernatural will, adding to the mystique of the temple. Photographs of the ever-changing spring have become a regular feature of Jammu and Kashmir temple tours, luring spiritual seekers as well as scientific adventurers.
Kheer Bhawani Festival: Jyeshtha Ashtami Celebrations
The temple’s largest event is the Kheer Bhawani festival, celebrated on Jyeshtha Ashtami (the eighth day of the increasing moon during the Hindu month of Jyeshtha, in May or June). Hundreds of thousands of pilgrims throng Tulmul Village, a kaleidoscope of devotion and faith. The air is filled with the slogans of “ॐ जगदम्बे भक्ताभ्र्यां नमो नमः” (Om Jagadambe Bhaktabhryam Namo Namah) and the melodious sounds of bhajans of devotion.
Preparations begin weeks in advance: pandits prepare earth pots (kalash) with kheer, marigold garland, and turmeric paste. Volunteers set up temporary stalls offering prasadam (holy food), tricolor flags, and prayer books. On the day of Jyeshtha Ashtami, a festive procession is organized to take the idol of Mata Kheer Bhawani from the central temple to the banks of Devika River, where it is ritually washed with kheer-laden water.
The climax of the festival comes in the mesmerizing Beating the Spring ceremony. Priests strike the parapet with ritual rods, invoking the spring to reveal its color. The collective gasp of the crowd at beholding a new color heightens the emotional depth of the festival. Friends bless one another, families embrace each other, and strangers unite under the canopy of maternal divine blessings.
Rituals and Practices
Apart from the festival, the Kheer Bhawani Mandir also observes daily rituals that are steeped in faith and symbolism:
- Morning Prayer (Mangala Aarti): Every morning, the temple is opened with an oil lamp lit in front of the goddess. Priests chant Vedic mantras, invoking the protection and benevolence of the goddess.
- Kheer Pradana: The kheer is presented by the devotees in small terracotta cups. The sweet rice may be prepared with saffron, cardamom, and dry fruits, reminiscent of Kashmiri tradition of cuisine.
- Panchamrit Abhishek: Ritual bath of the deity with a mixture of milk, honey, yogurt, ghee, and sugar, symbolizing spiritual purification.
- Bhajan Sandhya: Congregational singing of bhajans and hymns in the evening, performed on harmonium, tabla, and cymbals, creating harmony among individuals.
- Shanti Path: A peace prayer recited for the welfare of the world, all the more significant against the background of Kashmir’s chequered history.
These customs, combined with the local culture, make the temple a center of Kashmir pilgrimage where spirituality and social harmony flourish.
Cultural and Religious Importance
The Kheer Bhawani Temple is more than just a religious site. It is a connection to ancestral roots of Kashmiri Pandits, a site where family sagas cross each year in the form of annual pilgrimages. For Kashmiri Muslims residing in the neighborhood, the temple is a cozy landmark, one that is sacred as shared cultural heritage. Such mutual respect has been a reflection of communal peace in an otherwise war-torn region at times.
Anthropologists recognize the temple as a syncretic tradition. According to local tradition, Muslim boatmen ferry pilgrims on the Devika River, and Muslim artisans are involved in the temple’s wooden decorations. The yearly festival has various groups joining in—Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and tourists—speaking of Kashmir’s pluralism.
Spiritually, Mata Kheer Bhawani is revered as Jagadamba (Mother of the Universe), symbolizing nurturing energy and healing grace. Pilgrims generally narrate individual experiences of comfort, healing, and refreshment upon visiting, validating the temple’s psychological and emotional significance.
How to Reach Kheer Bhawani Temple
Located approximately 22 kilometers north of Srinagar, the Kheer Bhawani Temple can be accessed via several modes of transport:
- By Air: Nearest airport is Sheikh ul-Alam International Airport (SXR) at Srinagar, well connected to India’s important cities like Delhi, Mumbai, and Chandigarh. Taxis and shared cabs are available from the airport.
- By Road: Srinagar has good road connectivity. National Highway 44 (NH44) reaches up to Jammu, from where state transport buses and private buses ply on a regular basis. On reaching Srinagar, one can take a local taxi or bus to reach Tulmul Village.
- By Train: The nearest railway station is Jammu Tawi, some 300 km away. An overnight bus or a drive along the Pir Panjal mountains via Srinagar to Tulmul is possible from Jammu.
- Local Transport: Shared tempos and private vehicles run regularly between Srinagar’s Lal Chowk and Tulmul. Distance is around 45 minutes during normal traffic conditions.
Though GPS-guided navigation helps guide the trip, local signboards in Urdu, Hindi, and English guide visitors along the way. A local driver or guide familiar with Kashmiri twisting roads, especially in rainy months when landslides disrupt travel, is advisable.
Best Time to Visit
Although the Kheer Bhawani Temple is open all year round, scheduling your visit makes the spiritual and sensory experience enhanced:
- Jyeshtha Ashtami (May–June): The peak of devotional fervour during the Kheer Bhawani festival presents a once-in-a-lifetime sensation of Kashmiri ritual grandeur. Expect hordes, pompous processions, and non-stop merriment.
- Spring (March–April): As tulips bloom throughout Srinagar and chinar trees unfold new leaves, the temple complex comes alive, presenting a serene oasis before the tourist season peaks at its busiest.
- Autumn (September–October): Weather turns cool after the monsoon, and the temple premises become golden-colored. With lesser tourists, it is ideal for contemplative pilgrimages.
- Winter (November–February): Snowfalls every now and then cover Tulmul Village, but the temple remains accessible. Frosty conditions and chances of roads getting closed due to snowfalls necessitate caution, but the tranquility of winter imparts a peaceful beauty to the sanctuary.
Make every attempt to not use monsoon seasons (July–August) when heavy rainfall tends to bring on landslips on mountainous roads. Watch local weather forecast and road updates before finalizing your trip.
Places to Explore around Tulmul Village
You can accompany the visit to the Kheer Bhawani Temple with tours of other neighboring sites:
- Naranag Temple Ruins: A series of 8th-century Shaivite temples situated against the view of the district of Budgam, featuring traditional Kashmiri masonry.
- Manasbal Lake: The “Supreme Jewel of Lakes” is a fresh water lake and offers shikara rides, birdlife, and serene sunsets.
- Harwan Garden: A Mughal period terraced garden having fountains and flowerbeds, perfect to take a stroll.
- Dachigam Wildlife Sanctuary: 141 square kilometers of habitat for the endangered Hangul deer, perfect for the wildlife enthusiast.
Incorporating these destinations into your trip not only enriches your Kashmir pilgrimage but also supports the livelihood of locals through responsible tourism.
Accommodation and Travel Tips
While Tulmul Village itself has not much accommodation to offer, neighboring Srinagar city offers a variety of accommodations:
- Houseboats in Dal Lake: Experience genuine Kashmiri hospitality aboard a wooden marvel floating on Dal Lake.
- Boutique Hotels in Srinagar: Heritage hotels on the Nigeen Lake to luxury resorts with panoramic mountain views.
- Tulmul Guesthouses: Small family-owned guesthouses with few amenities, perfect for pilgrims who need to be close to the temple.
Tips for Visitors:
Permits: Indian citizens do not require special permits. Foreign tourists may have to register themselves at the Srinagar District Tourist Office.
- Dress Code: A modest attire is appreciated—women can bring a headscarf, and men should refrain from tank tops.
- Local Etiquette: Remove shoes when entering the temple courtyard. Photography of ceremonies is not allowed unless a prior permission is taken.
- Health Precautions: Carry bottled water and necessary medicines. If you have respiratory issues, consult your doctor since altitude and cold will be hard to endure.
- Connectivity: There will be mobile connectivity patchy in and around Tulmul; download maps offline and inform family of your plans.
Conservation and Community Engagement
Recently, heritage conservationists and environmental activists have brought to the limelight the delicate environment that gyrates around the temple of Kheer Bhawani. Healthiness of the Devika River water, preservation of native flora of the garden, and maintenance of wooden structures of the temple are the issues of continuous custodianship. Local NGOs collaborate with temple trusts in organizing cleanup camps, forestation initiatives, and local community training sessions for sustainable tourism.
Pilgrims are encouraged to cut down on plastic use—carrying refillable water bottles and biodegradable offerings. The donations made to the temple are utilized for both ritual upkeep and social welfare causes, including student scholarships for locals and medical camps for impoverished villagers.
Conclusion
The Kheer Bhawani Temple, with its simple architecture and strong spiritual history, offers a pilgrimage experience unlike any other. Whether you crave the excitement of Kheer Bhawani fair, the brooding quiet of spring turning colors, or the warm arms of Kashmiri tradition, this temple in Jammu and Kashmir preserves the essence of divine motherly comfort. Walk along the village paths of Tulmul Village, smell the pine and rosemary, listen to the Devika and become a part of a thousand years old faith saga. Mata Kheer Bhawani pilgrimage is not just a bodily journey but a spiritual journey—a one that satisfies the heart just as much as the divine kheer is offered respectfully to her feet.
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People Also Ask
What is the Kheer Bhawani Temple?
The Kheer Bhawani Temple is a historic Hindu shrine dedicated to Mata Kheer Bhawani (Ragnya Devi), located on the banks of the Devika River in Tulmul, Jammu & Kashmir. It’s famous for its sacred color changing spring and annual Jyeshtha Ashtami festival.
Where is the Kheer Bhawani Temple located?
The temple stands in Tulmul Village, about 22 km north of Srinagar, along the Devika (Jhelum) River. It’s easily accessible by road via NH44 from Srinagar’s Lal Chowk.
What is the legend behind Mata Kheer Bhawani?
Legend says a devout Brahmin, Shivanand Swami, offered sweet rice pudding (kheer) to a hidden spring, where the Mother Goddess appeared and blessed his devotion. Since then, kheer became the principal offering, giving the temple its name.
When is the best time to visit Kheer Bhawani Temple?
For cultural immersion, visit during Jyeshtha Ashtami (May–June). For serene sightseeing, spring (March–April) and autumn (September–October) offer pleasant weather and fewer crowds.
What are the temple’s opening hours?
Kheer Bhawani Temple opens at 5 AM for the Mangala Aarti and closes after the evening Bhajan Sandhya, around 8 PM. Timings may shift slightly during festivals.
How do I reach Kheer Bhawani Temple from Srinagar?
Hire a taxi or shared tempo from Srinagar’s Lal Chowk—travel time is about 45 minutes. GPS navigation works, but a local driver can help navigate winding roads.
Is there an entry fee or permit required?
Indian nationals enter free of charge; foreign tourists need to register at the District Tourist Office in Srinagar. No special permits are needed for Indian pilgrims.
Why is the spring at Kheer Bhawani Temple famous?
The spring’s water is believed to reflect Mata Bhawani’s mood by changing colors—red, blue, green or dark—signaling auspiciousness or disharmony in the community.
What causes the spring’s color changes?
Devotees attribute it to divine will. Scientists suggest mineral or algal activity, but the phenomenon remains central to the temple’s mystique.
What is the dress code for visiting the temple?
Modest attire is recommended: women should cover their heads with a scarf, and men should avoid sleeveless tops. Remove footwear before entering the courtyard.
Can tourists participate in Jyeshtha Ashtami celebrations?
Yes—visitors of all faiths are welcome to witness the grand procession, kheer offerings, and the “Beating the Spring” ceremony, provided they respect local customs.
What daily rituals are observed at the temple?
Key rituals include the Mangala Aarti (dawn prayer), Kheer Offering (sweet rice pudding), Panchamrit Abhishek (five ingredient bath), and evening Bhajan Sandhya (devotional singing).
Are there accommodation options near the temple?
Tulmul has a few basic guesthouses; for more comfort, book a houseboat on Dal Lake or a boutique hotel in Srinagar, about 30 minutes away.
What other attractions are near Kheer Bhawani Temple?
Combine your visit with Naranag Temple ruins, Manasbal Lake shikara rides, Mughal era Harwan Garden, or a wildlife tour in Dachigam Sanctuary.
Is photography allowed inside the temple?
Casual photography of the temple exterior and garden is usually permitted, but photographing rituals or devotees requires prior permission from temple authorities.
Are guided tours available for the temple?
Yes—local tour operators in Srinagar offer half day guided excursions to Kheer Bhawani Temple, including commentary on history, legends, and architecture.
How long should I plan for a temple visit?
Allocate 2–3 hours: time for darshan (sacred viewing), participation in rituals, exploring the garden, and observing the spring.
Can devotees offer kheer at the temple spring?
Absolutely—pilgrims bring terracotta bowls of saffron infused kheer to pour into the sacred spring as a devotional offering.
What role do Kashmiri Pandits play at the temple?
As custodians of the shrine, Kashmiri Pandit priests conduct all major rituals and organize the annual festival, preserving centuries old traditions.
How is the Kheer Bhawani festival celebrated?
On Jyeshtha Ashtami, the idol of Mata Kheer Bhawani is carried in a grand procession, kheer baths are performed, and devotees gather for communal prayers and bhajans.
Is local transport available to the temple?
Shared tempos and private taxis run regularly between Srinagar and Tulmul. During peak festival season, special buses may be arranged by local authorities.
What safety precautions should visitors take?
Carry bottled water, wear sturdy footwear, check weather forecasts for landslide warnings, and inform someone of your itinerary due to spotty mobile coverage.
How can I support the temple’s conservation efforts?
Donate to the temple trust, participate in clean up drives, minimize plastic use, and follow guidelines for biodegradable offerings to protect the Devika River ecosystem.
Is the temple open during winter months?
Yes—the shrine remains accessible year round. However, heavy snowfall can cause road closures; always verify local conditions before traveling in December–February.
Who manages the Kheer Bhawani Temple trust?
A committee of Kashmiri Pandit priests and local community leaders oversees temple operations, ritual schedules, festival planning, and charitable activities.
